Snowdonia Slate Trail: A long run in the park

2020 has been a funny year so far!  After an awesome January running the Spine Race (you can read about it here, but make a panad first, it’s a long one), we packed up, sold our house, and moved to North Wales, ready to start my new job as a consultant in A&E.  Disruptive at the best of times, COVID and lockdown certainly made the next few months more challenging than I had expected!  But, we have money in the bank, and we are fit and healthy, so I can’t complain.

The Snowdonia National Park has been almost completely shut (except for the Carneddi) due to COVID lockdown restrictions, so the spring of running I had planned just hasn’t materialised.  That’s not to say I haven’t been out running, but the long days in the mountains I’d been dreaming of definitely haven’t happened!  Like most other UK runners, my race diary has been getting emptier as more races have (understandably) been cancelled.  It’s hard to keep up the motivation without a goal.  I’m still waiting to hear if GB Ultras Race Across Scotland will happen or not in August, but I’m not hopeful.

So, I needed a new goal!  After following acorn-markers north on the Pennine Way, it seemed like a long distance trail might be the way to go.  And the circular, local nature of the Snowdonia Slate Trail  meant it fitted the bill perfectly as lockdown has begun to ease here in North Wales.  I’m on seven days of annual leave and wanted to do something productive with my time, so I committed to running the Snowdonia Slate Trail.  The forecast wasn’t perfect (even on the ‘better weather day’), so I made the decision to run supported rather than unsupported/ self-supported.  Initially I had planned to start on Friday, so I had extra time to recover from a long weekend on-call at work, but worsening weather meant I swapped this to the slightly drier Thursday.

The route is 83 miles / 134 km long with approximately 4500m of ascent.  It starts with a linear stretch from Bangor to Bethesda, then it completes a large circuit through Snowdonia, back to Bethesda.  It is way-marked, but there aren’t many way-markers.  It’s easy to miss a sign and be off-route; you definitely need a map to navigate.  There is a route book that you can buy, and a website that details the route.

03:01 a.m. Setting off from Bangor

At 03:01am on Thursday 2nd July (after an unsurprisingly bad night's sleep) I left Porth Penrhyn in Bangor on the cycle path and headed for Bethesda.  The route follows a series of small footpaths up to Llanllechid, before dropping into Bethesda.  Within 2 km I turned off the tarmac cycle path onto overgrown footpaths and my feet were soaking wet.  The undergrowth was full of moisture as it had been raining for days.  It continued to rain for the next six hours which was challenging.

I’d run the first section from Bangor to Llanberis before, and the route passed uneventfully.  Dawn came slowly in Bethesda and it was a relief to turn my torch off.  By the time I reached Llanberis, I had wet pants!  Emma had agreed to run with me from here until Nantlle, so I had dropped some resupply bits off in her garage the night before.  I dried my shorts and pants with a towel (thanks!), then was ready to go again.  If she hadn’t been running with me, I think I might have run home and gone to bed!

Llanberis to Nantlle passed quickly, and I was now on new terrain, passing through slate quarries and quaint slate villages.  Tom turned up in Nantlle to retrieve Emma and allow me to resupply again.

Frustratingly there was an illegal footpath closure through Ffridd Farm in Nantlle.  I had contacted the farm owners to ask if I could pass through but they had said no.  I contacted the council who confirmed that it was an illegal closure and that I could use the footpath, but I don’t want to jeopardise access for the Slate Trail in the future, so I diverted around on the road.  Hopefully this will be rectified in the near future; there is understandably a lot of tension and anxiety in some communities due to COVID.

It's stopped raining enough to get my sunnies out!

After a short diversion I was back on route and on my way to Rhyd Ddu and then Beddgelert, ahead of schedule.  By the time I’d made it to Beddgelert, the sun was out and I finally took off my waterproof jacket!  I was moving well, faster than expected, and was back to enjoying things (now that my pants were dry again).  The footpath from Nantmor to Croesor was mostly like a stream, but fortunately the surroundings are picturesque.  I was starting to worry about my very wet feet.  Its a long slog uphill after Croesor, but with a steady pace, I was at the top of hill quicker than planned; probably too quick in retrospect!  I trotted down into Tanygrisau, feeling really happy, and an hour up on my schedule.  I shared a joyous phone call with some good friends, singing ‘Happy Birthday’ and cheering at the fact that I was now half-way there.

The ensuing 8.6km from Tanygrisiau to Llan Ffestiniog were tough and the wheels really fell off!  I clearly hadn’t fuelled enough.  My feet were sore.  And the faster pace I’d been maintaining didn’t seem possible now.  I reached Tom and my spare kit, and really could have stopped there!  I took the opportunity to check out my feet (macerated!), re-tape them, and put on dry socks and shoes.  A cup of tea, a mug of full fat coke, and it was time to get moving again, with 2 slices of pizza in my hand.  In retrospect, I actually completed this leg in the time that I had predicted on my schedule, but at the time I felt I’d lost a lot of extra time.

The next section from Llan Ffestiniog to Penmachno is both the longest and the most remote.  At 21.3km long, it also involves 880m of ascent, and is renowned for its bogginess and lack of signage.  Great!  Just what I needed when tired.  Cwm Cynfal gorge really was a hidden gem, and I passed many stunning waterfalls as I made my way up the impressive valley.  The remote Migneint moors were as boggy as I’d expected; my dry shoes didn’t last long!  But before too long, it was back downhill towards Cwm Penmachno.

Must obey speed limits into Cwm Penmachno...

Another frustrating diversion on the forestry tracks between Cwm Penmachno and Penmachno due to forestry works meant I had to go off-piste through the forest and back onto the road.  It would have been useful if this had been signed in the village before I’d slogged uphill on tired legs.  At least it made sure I didn’t miss out any ascent from the route!  I made it into Penmachno at 20:30 and was pleased to see Siobhan, who had decided to join me for the final 36 km back to Bethesda (after a full day at work; what a star!).

The trail from Penmachno to Betws-y-coed was steady and easy going.  My legs were feeling quite good, but my feet were the limiting factor.  Good company, and lots of chatter helped the miles pass.  Siobhan even let me sing the Spice Girls to cheer me up (her music taste is way cooler than mine).  Our head torches came out as we left Betws and plodded on towards Capel Curig.  I was starting to feel tired, but the much-desired cup of tea in Capel didn’t materialise because Tom had been fast asleep.  Instead a cup of coke, and on to the final leg.

Time for a resupply (when  your support crew is asleep and hasn't made you a brew!)

Capel to Bethesda is mostly downhill, and mostly very straightforward, except for an excruciating 2.6km along the backside of Llyn Ogwen.  Dodging bogs and jumping between dry rocks, this took me a very slow 50 minutes in the dark!  Fortunately the final 9 km are much more straight forward.  With gritted teeth (yes, my feet were still sore… in case I haven’t told you enough!), we marched the final stretch down into Bethesda.  Dawn arrived just as I finished; 04:33am on Friday 3rd July.  Time for bed!

Happy smiles at the end!

Big thanks to Tom for being my support man, to Emma for joining me when I had wet pants and wanted to quit, and finally to Siobhan for coming for a slow plod through the night and putting up with my moaning when tired and sore!

Stats:

• 136.4km

• 4674m ascent

• 25 hr 32 minutes

As far as I know, this is a female FKT; previously run in 30 hr 59 min 42 sec by Seda Nur Celik, during the Snowdonia Slate Trail Ultra in February 2020, and in 34 hr 51 min 45 sec by Belinda Southwall in September 2019.

You can check out my strava files here and here.

Hopefully this will motivate more women to get out on the trail and have a go!  I’m sure there are many faster, more talented runners than me who can beat my time!  It’s been a good opportunity to get outside and try hard.

If I was to run this again; I’d either try to do it when the trails are drier, or rethink my footwear strategy, and perhaps go with waterproof socks.  I wasn’t expecting my feet to be such a problem.  I’m not sure if it’s because the latest model of the Hoka Speedgoat doesn’t drain as well as previous models (but is more durable as a result), or if I’d have had the same problem regardless due to the sheer volume of rain in the last week.  Things to consider for any future long runs anyway!

From Barra to the Butt: A new Heb Way Record

Earlier in the year (in June), whilst the sun still shined continuously and there was not a drop of rain to be seen, I had a week of glorious cycle touring in Scotland.  After Cape Wrath, I figured I needed to rein in my usual touring plans (120mile/day, for consecutive days), and opt for something a bit more gentle on the legs!  I was really keen to come and ride the Hebridean Way, and decided to make it into a circuit, linking in Mull and Skye, plus other parts of the mainland.

From the Butt of Lewis...

... to Vatersay, in glorious sunshine.  June 2018.

I had an exciting week, riding and island-hopping on the CalMac ferries, finishing my week with 3 days of riding down the outer hebrides.  I was incredibly fortunate with the weather, and sat on golden beaches in the west coast of the islands, you'd be forgiven for thinking I was somewhere more tropical!

The Berneray Ferry in sunshine.  June 2018

At the end of the trip I had an idea about riding the Heb Way in a day, but managed to dismiss this.  I had read about Mark Beaumont riding it in 24 hours to publicise the route's launch.  As usually happens, once the seed is sewn in my head, it's just a matter of time before my silly ideas come to fruition!

A return trip to Scotland for a friend's wedding gave me the perfect excuse to return to the Outer Hebrides and have a shot at setting a new record for riding the Heb Way.

The Heb Way Cycle Route

The route, launched in 2016, is way-marked National Cycle Network Route (NCR) 780.  It consists of 185 miles, covers 10 islands, 6 causeways and 2 ferry crossings.  The roads on the Outer Hebrides are incredibly quiet, and you can see why cyclists are drawn here; you can see why I wanted to come back.

Photo from Visit Outer Hebrides

The route, normally ridden from Vatersay to the Butt of Lewis, is mostly flat for the first half, before you hit the hills of Harris.  It hugs the west coast of the islands for large parts of the ride, and the scenery is just spectacular.  It seems cliched to say that, but really, it is just so stunning!

Mark Beaumont rode the route in 24hrs in 2016, when it was launched, to help publicise it.  His trip sounded really exciting, including flying in to Barra, (where the plane lands on a beach!!) visiting local school children, and catching speed boats between the islands.  My return trip would not be so exciting.

The Heb Way; a Fastest Known Time

In order to set a fastest known time, a fair bit of planning was required!  Linking 3 sections of riding up with 2 ferries; making sure I was in the right place at the right time, took a bit of logistical juggling.  My original plan felt apart due to tidal timetables.  But a rethink and date adjustment meant it looked like it might be possible.

The stages:
1) Vatersay and Barra; 21 km
2) Sound of Barra ferry; 40 mins
3) Eriskay, South Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, North Uist, Berneray; 122km
4) Sound of Harris ferry; 1 hour
5) Harris and Lewis; 154km.

The biggest challenge was working out how to link ferries so that I arrived at Berneray with enough time to catch the ferry, but not too much that I was sat waiting too long.  In the end, the ferries I chose gave me 5hr20 in which to cycle the middle leg.  It is possible to link ferries that reduce this time, and therefore reduce the total ride time.

Re-fueling on the Sound of Barra ferry.  Hot chocolate and pancakes.

I also had a big debate about riding supported v.s unsupported.  Whilst I felt being unsupported was more suitable to the nature of the challenge, I ended up riding on a Sunday, so this added an extra challenge, with most shops and facilities being closed.  In the end I decided to ride supported, as my husband was going to be driving the car from Barra to Stornaway anyway so that we could catch the ferry back the next morning and get home in time for work.  In the foul weather, I definitely didn't regret this decision!

My Heb Way Record Ride

As the day approached, a weather front moved in that meant there was a strong wind (25mph) coming in from the south.  Unfortunately there was also rain forecast for most of the day.  I was already committed now though, so we caught the ferry over to Barra anyway!  We headed down to Vatersay, and camped next to the community centre, ready for an early start in the morning.  Of course I tossed and turned all night, sleeping terribly!  When the alarm went off at 5am, it was almost a relief to get up, even if I was still tired.  I ate some breakfast, packed away our stuff and get myself ready to go.  Dawn was just starting to appear as I started, at 05.49am.

Dawn approaches on Vatersay.  The start of the Heb Way.  05.49am.

With a high-vis and bike lights on, I headed off of Vatersay, over my first causeway of the day, and up a short but sharp climb (11.1%) on to Barra.  I whizzed around Barra in no-time, reaching the ferry at Ardhmor in 46 mins.  I then had a 20 minute wait to board the ferry.

Daylight approaching, as I cross the causeway from Vatersay to Barra.

The 7am ferry across the Sound of Barra is a request ferry only on a Sunday.  Despite ringing CalMac twice, I was slightly worried it wouldn't run.  It was a relief when it was waiting for us; we were it's only passengers!

I rolled off the ferry at Eriskay, and passing my favourite beach, I was quickly on my way north.  The wind was certainly on my side, helping the miles click by very easily!  Turning east or west (as the route does when it wiggles around Benbecula and North Uist), the wind stopped being my friend.  Riding along with a strong cross-wind gusting and trying it's hardest to push me off was certainly tiring work, and my shoulders were aching by the time I reached Berneray.  Unfortunately it wasn't just the wind I had to content with, the rain also came out to play after about 50km of riding.  I arrived at the ferry feeling cold, wet and a bit defeated, but still had 150km to go!

Waiting for the ferry at Berneray.  Soaking wet, cold, but still smiling!

Despite feeling defeated, this section had taken me an hour less than expected, so i had plenty of time to get changed into drier clothes, get warm, and eat plenty of food.

I had been anxious about the ferry across the Sound of Harris.  I know the crossing is difficult to navigate, and as a result often doesn't sail due to poor visibility.  I worried and worried that my attempt would be aborted due to ferries.  It was a relief to see it sail into view, and an even bigger relief to get off at the other side, and know that my attempt was now just relient on me, rather than CalMac also.

Armed with my heavy-duty mountaineering waterproof, I set off north again, heading for the Harris hills.  My legs pounded up them, quicker than expected, and I pushed north, as the miles continued to tick by.  Turing west across Lewis, riding over the moor between Leubost and Callanish, I hit rock bottom.  The wind was definitely not being my friend, it was still raining, and frankly I was tired and had had enough!  I met Tom again at Carloway, and stopped for a few minutes to eat more food (Scottish tablet and caffeinated sweets), before somehow finding some new strength, and managing to speed up again for the remaining 50km.

Challenging weather in the Outer Hebrides.

With about 20km to go, it finally stopped raining and the sun came out!  Heading towards the lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis, the evening sky to my left glowed magnificantly and the sun approached the sea.  Seeing the lighthouse on the horizon with about 10km to go was a massive boost.  I pedalled in to the Butt of Lewis with a big smile on my face, and had the pleasure of meeting Jan and Karin (from Heb Shuttle) who had come out to take photos and meet me.

Arriving at the Butt in sunshine.  8.07pm.

Yes!!  A new FKT on the Heb Way!  14 hrs 18 minutes.

Big hugs from Karin and Jan, of Heb Shuttle

14 hrs and 18 minutes after starting, I reached the Butt of Lewis!  It was definitely a tough challenge, made worse by the wind and rain.  But it was a big relief to make it to the end, not have any logistical problems along the way, and finish more than 90 minutes faster than I had predicted!

The Heb Shuttle & The Heb Way Record

When planning to set a record on the Heb Way, I contacted the Heb Shuttle to see if they would be interested in being the holders of the record; fortunately for me they said yes!  In future there will be a section on their website about the record, and people will be able to submit their fastest known times to them.  It was wonderful to meet them both; they are incredibly passionate about the Heb Way and the Outer Hebrides, having moved to Lewis 20 years ago from Holland.  After my attempt they gave me a lift back into Stornaway.  I would not hesitate to use them again for any future bike trips to the Outer Hebrides.

Record Details

My GPS file can be viewed on strava here.  Note the time of 10hr36 is just my moving time, and my total time is 14 hr 18 minutes.

Strava map from here

Timing details:
Start 05.49am
Stage 1 Vatersay to Barra; 21km, 47 minutes.
Stage 2 Eriskay to Berneray; 122km, 4hr 5 minutes
Stage 3 Harris to Butt of Lewis; 154km, 6hr 5 minutes
Finish 08.07pm

It is definitely possible to get a quicker time, even without cycling faster, by catching different ferries; the record is there for the taking now!  It's worth saying I am not the fastest cyclist out there by any standard; I'm just quite stubborn!  I look forward to people getting out there and riding faster!

Lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis

Record Rules

1) No electric bikes (obviously...)
2) You must catch scheduled ferries, not speed boats (this levels the playing field, and means it is not limited by personal finance)
3) It can be supported or unsupported; you must specify which.
4) No drafting of other cyclists.

Cape Wrath Ultra: The Finale

Life really does go on, despite a continuing desire to be back running across the hills, surrounded by beautiful mountains, and beautiful new friends.  After a challenging set of night shifts (not blog-reproducible), I’m currently on a train home from London after a course.  The mountains are different in London; made of skyscrapers, and the people busier; they smile less!  Yesterday (after a 5am wake up; still not fully shaken the Cape Wrath routine…) I fell back to sleep and had vivid dreams of running through the mountains for a good three hours, before finally waking again after 8am… time to start the day.

So back to the journey…

Sunshine and Salt

Day 5 constitutes another ‘rest’ day on the CWU, clocking in at only 44 Km, with a pleasant 1400m of ascent.  And compared to day 4, the terrain is positively pleasant! 

We (myself and the boys) fall into our usual routine, heading off around 7am after a generous application of the factor 50 sunscreen.  Unusually it takes a while before the first hill; we get at least 5km along an easy track, before slowly heading uphill along a footpath, and into the dreaded trackless terrain.

Day 5: Approaching Fisherfield
Photo by Ian Heywood

We’re talking about band roles; Ian on the rhythm guitar (and Owain too if I remember correctly, or maybe the bass guitar?); Glenn and myself have a debate about singing (both of us decide to be share lead vocals), and apparently I’m doing drums as well.  Pam (my tent mate) comes up with an excellent band name and voila!  “Nikki & The Tendonitis Heals” is born!

Heading through Fisherfield is absolutely stunning.  Half way through the day we pause at a river crossing to fill our bottles.  I lay down on the grass under the baking sun, and we joke about being on holiday.  The descent down after the second hill into the checkpoint is great!  There’s a decent track with some good running; it’s great to open up the legs and feel a bit of speed.

The final climb whizzes by quickly, before we start a more challenging descent down into camp at Inverbroom.  The path is just a bit too rocky, the angle a bit too steep, and legs a bit too tired to make it enjoyable.  After a few cheers from support crew who have come part way up the hill (thank you!), we make it into camp by 3pm, and are treated to Callipos!  Yum!  The sun is out, there’s more time to dry wet kit, and a great river to wash in.  An awesome evening in camp!

Drying kit at Inverbroom
Photo by Jimmy Hyland JHPVisuals

A hug delivery!

The best word to describe day 6 would be long.  It’s 72km through prime salmon fishing territory in Assynt.  The day starts with a lot of good tracks, and we move well as a team, reaching half way in no time.

We run into the checkpoint, met by a chorus of “woo-ooo”… “We’re half way there, woo-ooo, living on a prayer!” we respond, before dishing out hugs to everyone and anyone (including an awkward looking Gary; sorry!).

Hug Delivery!
Photo by Jimmy Hyland JHPVisuals

After the imposing Ben More Lodge, we head up into Glen Oykel, and the terrain gets more challenging.  Until this point my feet have been good, but at some point today a few toes have blistered.  I’ve hit today’s metaphorical wall, and struggle along the glen, watching the feet in front.  I look up, and am met with the impressive views of a rocky Garbh Choire, beneath Conival and Ben More Assynt.  It takes my breathe away, and induces another round of tears.  The final climb is tough, and very hard work.  Unfortunately by this point descending is now quite painful.  It’s a relief to reach camp after a tough end to the day.  Emotion is high in our group, and for once I’m not the only one to be crying.  There is another river wash, another evening in camp, and another beautiful sunset.

Heading up Glen Oykel
Photo by Ian Heywood

Cry Me a River

As we leave camp on day 7 Shane reassures us with a smile that it’s only 60km today.  Since when did 60km have ‘only’ in the same sentence??  We’re all sore, and all tired.  It’s going to be a tough one!  The terrain up to the first checkpoint is tough, much tougher than our poor legs can bear.  Ian, who has been stoical and strong until this point, hits his rock bottom (I know I’d hit mine yesterday), and stumbles along with a concoction of angry words.  We pass the tallest waterfall in Scotland (no, not the small one on the right, the giant one on the left Alex!), and Ian regains composure and a sense of positivity.

We hit the only summit of the week; Ben Dreavie, and finally the end is in sight- literally!!  We can just see the tip of the Cape Wrath Lighthouse!

Summit of Ben Dreavie
Photo by Ian Heyood

Perhaps the low point of the day, if not the week, was trudging along the shores of Loch a’ Garbh-bhaid Mor.  Ian pulled us out of our slump with some excellent bird-watching skills.  He excitedly pointed out a Northern Diver to us all, which still makes me laugh now!  He told us a bit about them, his voice full of sincerity!!

The day finished with tarmac; 7 km of tarmac, plus painful feet with blistered toes.  Not a pleasant experience.  I spent most of the tarmac hiding behind my sunglasses, crying.  And crying, and crying.  Reaching the crest of the final hill and seeing camp below us brought on yet more tears.  We arrived in camp tired, with the tears still flowing.  I’m not sure why; I guess a mixture of pain, exhaustion, and also relief; the finish was so close now!

Owen played the hero yet again, bringing me tea and more chocolate cake to the tent, so I could get my feet sorted.  Even Charlotte popped over to the tent to check in with me (clearly my tears had everyone worried; sorry; I’m a crier!).

Kinlochbervie Camp at sunset
Photo by Jimmy Hyland JHPVisuals

Cape Wrath Lighthouse/ "The is the End, oh beautiful friend, the End"

Having spent all week dreaming of the end, it was odd being so close.  But equally, I didn’t want things to end.  I’m not sure I can find the best words to write about this day!  Or else I could write far too many words!

Sandwood bay: gorgeous.  I’ll definitely be coming back to climb Am Buchaille, the sea stack at the end of the beach.  After Sandwood Bay we headed across yet more trackless moor; a combination of tussocks and bog are by now our favourite terrain!

There’s a final alphabet for our final hill.  This time it’s “I went ultra running with Noah and I took… a whole herd of animals!  Hitting the track, we round a final bend, to see the lighthouse ahead of us.  We run, singing, elated across the finish line.  The expected tears don’t come; I used them all up yesterday, and they won’t come until much later, at the finisher’s meal/ medal ceremony.

Running across the finish line
Photo by Fiona Outdoors

We have team hugs, and finisher’s photos, cups of tea and soup, and wait patiently for the mini-bus that will take us back to civilisation.  We doze or chat quietly on the minibus as we bump our way to the Kyle of Durness, before climbing onto a small boat to be ferried across the Kyle.

Team hugs at Cape Wrath
Photo by Fiona Outdoors

My father-in-law and his wife have come out to wave (thank you!), and we exchange sweaty hugs, before a short minibus ride back to camp.  At camp we are met by the fabulous crew who have spent all week looking after us; time for lots more hugs and big grins.

After a trip to the shop to buy cans of lager and ice creams, I lay on the grass outside the boys tent (24!), surrounded by new friends who I now know so well, feeling overwhelmed, and in awe of what we’ve achieved together.

That first shower is heaven, despite being cold!  We gather for a group photo; finishers and helpers; what a team!  Then it’s off to the finishing ceremony to eat lots of food, and celebrate our achievements.  Finally the tears start falling (Nico stood nearby can’t stop blubbing, and I’m quickly set off!).

Competitors and Crew at Durness
Photo by Jimmy Hyland JHPVisuals

The sun barely sets that night up in Durness, as we toss and turn in tents with our aching legs.

One final breakfast with friends before the long journey home.  There’s plenty of time for things to sink in as the miles pass by.  It’s a long way from Fort William to Cape Wrath.  It’s even further from Durness to Sheffield!

Nikki & The Tendonitis Heals (a.k.a Glenn, Owain, me and Ian)
Photo by Jimmy Hyland JHPVisuals

The End
Photo by Jimmy Hyland JHPVisuals